Saaremaa [Estonia]

For Estonians, the island of Saaremaa epitomizes the nation’s natural beauty more than any other place in the country. Cloaked with pine forest, juniper heath and grasslands, its coastline girdled with sandy beaches and tawny reed beds, it has long appeale to nature-loving, well-to-do Tallinners and increasingly attracts Scandinavian and Western European tourists too. Estonia’s largest island is also a fertile source of myths and legends, with local folklore centring on the adventures of Suur Toll, a friendly but short-tempered giant, and his wife Piret.
There is a scattering of farmstead-based B&Bs across Saaremaa, although most accommodation is concentrated in the island’s alluring capital, Kuressaare, site of the one must-see historic attraction, the Bishop’s Castle. North of Kuressaare lie some of Saaremaa’s best-known sights, notably the enchanting Angla windmills and the mysterious Kaali meteorite crater. On the western side of the island is the little-touristed coastal wilderness of the Vilsandi National Park, ideal for hiking. Historic churches crop up just about everywhere, with some especially fine examples at Karja, Kaarma and Kihelkonna.
Public transport is limited, with services to most destinations leaving Kuressaare at different times on different days of the week, making scheduling something of a nightmare – the Kuressaare tourist office is your best source of information. Thanks to its largely flat terrain, however, exploring by bike is a viable option; these can be rented in Kuressaare.